Tuesday, 11 March 2014
Thursday, 14 November 2013
A Kreepy Krauly Wrangler from South Africa
Pentair has launched their campaign for a new Pool cleaner in SA. This "tongue in cheek video" is a must watch for anyone with a pool.
Friday, 20 April 2012
Earth Day! – What about the swimming pool?
We are getting into the spirit of Earth Day (22 April 2012), and have been considering whether swimming pools are as Earth-friendly as they could be. You’ll find that in most cases – particularly with pools more than five years old – there are some fairly simple things that can be done to make your pool more environmentally friendly and save money in the process. In fact, many conservation-minded pool owners have found that the possibilities to go green with the pool is greater, cheaper and easier than the “in home” opportunities.
Here are a few suggestions to consider:
The pump: Most people don’t realise that a pool pump will use more energy than almost any other appliance in the home. In general, water needs to be circulated through the filter at least once (in winter) and preferably twice (in summer) every 24 hours. Keeping this in mind ensure that you adjust your filtration time according to the seasons to reduce the filtration run time to the minimum required. Make sure that you have a good quality pool timer and that you are clear about its operation and settings.
It may sound frivolous, but make sure that your pump is sized to the filter and the pool optimally. Having a pump even one size larger than required may, require an additional 33% in energy without any noticeable advantage in results. Pool pumps should operate smoothly and quietly if your pump is noisy it may be an indication of wear and maintenance may be required. A worn pump (especially bearings) leads to greater energy demands.
Heating / covers: Reduce heat loss by using a pool cover. This is especially applicable where a heat pump is used as opposed to solar heating, however having to pump the water over the roof for a solar system also demands additional energy. Energy savings of 50% - 70% are possible by simply keeping the pool covered when not in use. Walls, hedges and landscaping that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will further reduce heat loss.
Solar heating systems may also reduce energy requirements for pool heating, both where used as an alternative to and in conjunction with a heat pump.
If you use your pool only on weekends, reduce your heater or heat pump thermostats settings during the week. When leaving for vacation for more than a week, turn off the pool heater or heat pump.
Saltwater Chlorinators: A Saltwater Chlorinators converts ordinary table salt — roughly a teaspoon per 10 litres of pool water—into pure chlorine, allowing the pool owner to reduce costs and the risk of transporting, handling and storing chlorine in its standard chemical form.
Tip: Place you garden hose into the weir / skimmer and turn the tap on while backwashing. This will not only save you the loss of excessive amounts of salt from your pool water but also reduce the environmental impact by reducing the salinity of waste water, which may then be reusable. This clearly also reduces the amount of top up water required over and above.
Lights: LED pool lights are a much more energy-efficient option when compared to traditional incandescent and halogen pool lights. As an example, LED bulbs use as much as 90 percent less electricity than a regular incandescent bulb; the LED requires only about 9 watts to produce a comparable amount of brightness to a 75 watt incandescent.
Baskets & backwash: Keep the weir and pump baskets clear of debris. Clogged baskets require the pump to work much harder. To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency from your pump, backwash or clean your filter regularly or even as required during the windy season.
Water savings: Without a swimming pool cover, more than half the water in your pool can possibly evaporate in one year. Using a cover regularly reduces evaporation by up to 90%. Decreasing the occurrence and amount of wind going across the pool will cut down on evaporation. Walls, hedges and landscaping that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will assist in reducing evaporation.
Leaks: So how do you check for leaks? Water-saturated soil near the pool, pumps or pool plumbing equipment is a good indication. Check for leaking pipes, valves and fittings. Loose tiles or cracks could be an indicator of a leak. Sudden unexpected fill requirements greater than the typical weekly average fill, could also indicate a leak. Monitor your water bill; any substantial unexplained changes in your water bill might also signal a possible leak or other problem that will need further investigation.
Reuse Backwash Water: Empty the filter backwash onto lawns and shrubs or collect it to reuse. Reuse the water for any suitable application but do not return backwash water to the pool, even if treated.
Fountains & Waterfalls: When aeration occurs, a significant amount of water (and chemicals) can be lost to evaporation. Sure, they look pretty and you love to hear the sound of running water. Compromise; Only run pool fountains and waterfalls when you're entertaining.
Pool Water Level: Keeping the water level lower conserves water and helps to reduce water loss from extreme splashing and boisterous water play. It's a good idea to keep the water level in the middle of the weir / skimmer opening. Try to discourage swimmers from splashing by explaining to them that the water needs to stay in the pool.
With the help of the above few tips we hope that we have inspired you to run a “greener” pool and that it becomes a habit that you apply to all areas. Have any great ideas? Let us know!
Here are a few suggestions to consider:
The pump: Most people don’t realise that a pool pump will use more energy than almost any other appliance in the home. In general, water needs to be circulated through the filter at least once (in winter) and preferably twice (in summer) every 24 hours. Keeping this in mind ensure that you adjust your filtration time according to the seasons to reduce the filtration run time to the minimum required. Make sure that you have a good quality pool timer and that you are clear about its operation and settings.
It may sound frivolous, but make sure that your pump is sized to the filter and the pool optimally. Having a pump even one size larger than required may, require an additional 33% in energy without any noticeable advantage in results. Pool pumps should operate smoothly and quietly if your pump is noisy it may be an indication of wear and maintenance may be required. A worn pump (especially bearings) leads to greater energy demands.
Heating / covers: Reduce heat loss by using a pool cover. This is especially applicable where a heat pump is used as opposed to solar heating, however having to pump the water over the roof for a solar system also demands additional energy. Energy savings of 50% - 70% are possible by simply keeping the pool covered when not in use. Walls, hedges and landscaping that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will further reduce heat loss.
Solar heating systems may also reduce energy requirements for pool heating, both where used as an alternative to and in conjunction with a heat pump.
If you use your pool only on weekends, reduce your heater or heat pump thermostats settings during the week. When leaving for vacation for more than a week, turn off the pool heater or heat pump.
Saltwater Chlorinators: A Saltwater Chlorinators converts ordinary table salt — roughly a teaspoon per 10 litres of pool water—into pure chlorine, allowing the pool owner to reduce costs and the risk of transporting, handling and storing chlorine in its standard chemical form.
Tip: Place you garden hose into the weir / skimmer and turn the tap on while backwashing. This will not only save you the loss of excessive amounts of salt from your pool water but also reduce the environmental impact by reducing the salinity of waste water, which may then be reusable. This clearly also reduces the amount of top up water required over and above.
Lights: LED pool lights are a much more energy-efficient option when compared to traditional incandescent and halogen pool lights. As an example, LED bulbs use as much as 90 percent less electricity than a regular incandescent bulb; the LED requires only about 9 watts to produce a comparable amount of brightness to a 75 watt incandescent.
Baskets & backwash: Keep the weir and pump baskets clear of debris. Clogged baskets require the pump to work much harder. To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency from your pump, backwash or clean your filter regularly or even as required during the windy season.
Water savings: Without a swimming pool cover, more than half the water in your pool can possibly evaporate in one year. Using a cover regularly reduces evaporation by up to 90%. Decreasing the occurrence and amount of wind going across the pool will cut down on evaporation. Walls, hedges and landscaping that shelter your pool from prevailing winds will assist in reducing evaporation.
Leaks: So how do you check for leaks? Water-saturated soil near the pool, pumps or pool plumbing equipment is a good indication. Check for leaking pipes, valves and fittings. Loose tiles or cracks could be an indicator of a leak. Sudden unexpected fill requirements greater than the typical weekly average fill, could also indicate a leak. Monitor your water bill; any substantial unexplained changes in your water bill might also signal a possible leak or other problem that will need further investigation.
Reuse Backwash Water: Empty the filter backwash onto lawns and shrubs or collect it to reuse. Reuse the water for any suitable application but do not return backwash water to the pool, even if treated.
Fountains & Waterfalls: When aeration occurs, a significant amount of water (and chemicals) can be lost to evaporation. Sure, they look pretty and you love to hear the sound of running water. Compromise; Only run pool fountains and waterfalls when you're entertaining.
Pool Water Level: Keeping the water level lower conserves water and helps to reduce water loss from extreme splashing and boisterous water play. It's a good idea to keep the water level in the middle of the weir / skimmer opening. Try to discourage swimmers from splashing by explaining to them that the water needs to stay in the pool.
With the help of the above few tips we hope that we have inspired you to run a “greener” pool and that it becomes a habit that you apply to all areas. Have any great ideas? Let us know!
Friday, 30 March 2012
So, why is pH important?
What is pH?
pH is a number between 0 and 14 that indicates how acidic or basic a solution is. Pure distilled water has a pH of 7.0 and is neither acidic nor basic. Water with a pH of lower than 7.0 is said to be acidic, and the smaller the number, the more acidic the water is. In the opposite, water with a pH greater than 7.0 is basic, and the larger the number, the more basic the water.
The scale between 0 and 14 is also logarithmic, this means that, pH 8 is 10 times more basic (alkaline) than pH 7 and pH 9 is 100 times more basic than pH 7. In the reverse pH 6 is 10 times more acidic than pH 7 and ph 5 is 100 times more acidic than pH 7 and so on. So you can see that, what appear to be small variations in the range are in fact more serious than one would assume from the variation in the numbers. E.g. pH 3.5 is 10 000 times more acid than an ideal pH of 7.5 for pool water, even though one would have said there is only a difference of 4 in simple mathematics.
How does it affect my pool?
All that having been said, we can now say simply pH is a reading that indicates how acidic or basic (alkaline) your pool water is. The ideal pH range for pools is between 7.2 and 7.6. A reading below the range is acidic and a reading above the range is base. The most unstable and probably the most important component of water balance is pH. Without elaborating at this point, suffice it to say that it's important because it has an impact on your sanitiser effectiveness, your pool surfaces and equipment -- and you as the bather.
Here are the most common problems with both high and low pH levels:
High pH Readings
Poor sanitiser efficiency
Cloudy water
Shorter filter runs
Scale formation
Skin and eye irritation
Low pH Readings
Poor sanitiser efficiency
Etched or stained plaster
Corroded metals/equipment
Skin and eye irritation
Destruction of total alkalinity
pH is a very complicated subject, and the above explanation has been deliberately simplified to give sufficient, accurate information for swimming pool owners. Chemists would not accept it as complete, but it will do nicely just for this discussion. It is important to remember that pool pH levels are affected by the many impurities that find their way into the pool water including top up water, leaves, dust, cosmetics, perspiration, and all too often, urine (especially if your dog swims). All these substances have their own pH levels, which is why they affect the swimming pool pH levels
How do I “fix” my pool pH?
To correct a low pH reading situation, you would add soda ash or sodium bicarbonate; suitable products are available from your pool professional. If the pH reading is too high i.e. above 7.6, to bring the pH level down in pools, you'll need to add some pool acid (dry acid is safer but you may also use Hydrochloric acid). Here, you need to take special care and follow your pool professional’s advice. Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate can be added to a pool by dissolving the powder in a bucket of water and pouring the solution directly into the pool water; or by broadcasting the dry powder over the water surface. The amount required varies greatly from pool to pool, it is therefore advisable to have your pool professional test the water and advise on quantities and products to use. Hydrochloric acid (HCI) may be added to a pool if the pool owner is sufficiently aware of the dangers and precautions of handling acid. Dry acid can be poured directly into the pool when no one is swimming. Acids may also affect the total alkalinity of water. When making adjustments to the pH level, ensure the pump is running before adding any chemicals to your pool. Once the water has been allowed to re-circulate for a few hours, retest again to see if further action is needed. Note: Before adding any chemicals to treat your pool, adjust your pH levels as required. When adjusting pH always consider impact to total alkalinity. The use of both alkaline and basic to refer to high pH, and to products that raise the pH, may cause some confusion with the Total alkalinity of water. The difference between total alkalinity and pH is the subject of a future post. Accurate control of the pH of swimming pool water is essential. The effects of pH upon flocculants, bactericides, algae growth, equipment, maintenance and bather comfort is substantial and is often incorrectly attributed to other factors such as chlorine levels.
So, why is pH important?
1. The pH value affects the amount of free available chlorine (Hypochlorous acid) that is formed, and therefore determines the effectiveness of the chlorine to keep your pool water safe and hygienic.
At pH 6.5, 90% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
At pH 7.5, 50% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
At pH 8.0, only 20% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
Unfortunately you cannot run your pool at pH 6.5 – as it would then be acidic enough to corrode the metal parts in your pool equipment and it is just too far from the human body's pH of 7.4 to be comfortable for us to swim in. The compromise is therefore to obtain the best effectiveness of chlorine while ensuring bather comfort. (I.e. 7.2 to 7.6) Remember, if you let the pH drift out of this range, you will have to use much more chlorine to get adequate sanitation. 2. Bather comfort. At high pH, the water will make your eyes sting and possibly give you skin irritations. At low pH the impact on bathers is even more pronounced and red stinging eyes and chaffed skin in younger bathers may occur. 3. At high pH there are two dangers. a. The danger of scale forming on your pool surfaces, pipe work and fittings. This is because at a pH of around 8.0, the calcium in the water combines with carbonates in the water (Calcium carbonate or scale). b. Calcium carbonate can form into tiny particles and float around in the water giving it a cloudy, turbid appearance. 4. A low pH can corrode metals, damaging expensive equipment and leaving metal oxides to stain pool surfaces. Under certain conditions the precipitated (particulate) metals can even tint your blonde hair. Pools constructed with plaster are far more prone to wear and tear damages from low pH, and even if you cannot see it happen, tiny pit holes can form in the structure of the pool which opens up perfect breeding grounds for micro organisms and algae to form.
Conclusion
If you test nothing else always ensure that you are able to test pH & chlorine and that these tests are performed regularly and adjust accordingly. Effective ph control is far more economical and efficient than having to face; what would be required when your pH has been left unchecked and has been far out of range for extended periods of time.
pH is a number between 0 and 14 that indicates how acidic or basic a solution is. Pure distilled water has a pH of 7.0 and is neither acidic nor basic. Water with a pH of lower than 7.0 is said to be acidic, and the smaller the number, the more acidic the water is. In the opposite, water with a pH greater than 7.0 is basic, and the larger the number, the more basic the water.
The scale between 0 and 14 is also logarithmic, this means that, pH 8 is 10 times more basic (alkaline) than pH 7 and pH 9 is 100 times more basic than pH 7. In the reverse pH 6 is 10 times more acidic than pH 7 and ph 5 is 100 times more acidic than pH 7 and so on. So you can see that, what appear to be small variations in the range are in fact more serious than one would assume from the variation in the numbers. E.g. pH 3.5 is 10 000 times more acid than an ideal pH of 7.5 for pool water, even though one would have said there is only a difference of 4 in simple mathematics.
How does it affect my pool?
All that having been said, we can now say simply pH is a reading that indicates how acidic or basic (alkaline) your pool water is. The ideal pH range for pools is between 7.2 and 7.6. A reading below the range is acidic and a reading above the range is base. The most unstable and probably the most important component of water balance is pH. Without elaborating at this point, suffice it to say that it's important because it has an impact on your sanitiser effectiveness, your pool surfaces and equipment -- and you as the bather.
Here are the most common problems with both high and low pH levels:
High pH Readings
Poor sanitiser efficiency
Cloudy water
Shorter filter runs
Scale formation
Skin and eye irritation
Low pH Readings
Poor sanitiser efficiency
Etched or stained plaster
Corroded metals/equipment
Skin and eye irritation
Destruction of total alkalinity
pH is a very complicated subject, and the above explanation has been deliberately simplified to give sufficient, accurate information for swimming pool owners. Chemists would not accept it as complete, but it will do nicely just for this discussion. It is important to remember that pool pH levels are affected by the many impurities that find their way into the pool water including top up water, leaves, dust, cosmetics, perspiration, and all too often, urine (especially if your dog swims). All these substances have their own pH levels, which is why they affect the swimming pool pH levels
How do I “fix” my pool pH?
To correct a low pH reading situation, you would add soda ash or sodium bicarbonate; suitable products are available from your pool professional. If the pH reading is too high i.e. above 7.6, to bring the pH level down in pools, you'll need to add some pool acid (dry acid is safer but you may also use Hydrochloric acid). Here, you need to take special care and follow your pool professional’s advice. Soda ash and sodium bicarbonate can be added to a pool by dissolving the powder in a bucket of water and pouring the solution directly into the pool water; or by broadcasting the dry powder over the water surface. The amount required varies greatly from pool to pool, it is therefore advisable to have your pool professional test the water and advise on quantities and products to use. Hydrochloric acid (HCI) may be added to a pool if the pool owner is sufficiently aware of the dangers and precautions of handling acid. Dry acid can be poured directly into the pool when no one is swimming. Acids may also affect the total alkalinity of water. When making adjustments to the pH level, ensure the pump is running before adding any chemicals to your pool. Once the water has been allowed to re-circulate for a few hours, retest again to see if further action is needed. Note: Before adding any chemicals to treat your pool, adjust your pH levels as required. When adjusting pH always consider impact to total alkalinity. The use of both alkaline and basic to refer to high pH, and to products that raise the pH, may cause some confusion with the Total alkalinity of water. The difference between total alkalinity and pH is the subject of a future post. Accurate control of the pH of swimming pool water is essential. The effects of pH upon flocculants, bactericides, algae growth, equipment, maintenance and bather comfort is substantial and is often incorrectly attributed to other factors such as chlorine levels.
So, why is pH important?
1. The pH value affects the amount of free available chlorine (Hypochlorous acid) that is formed, and therefore determines the effectiveness of the chlorine to keep your pool water safe and hygienic.
At pH 6.5, 90% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
At pH 7.5, 50% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
At pH 8.0, only 20% of the chlorine will be Hypochlorous acid
Unfortunately you cannot run your pool at pH 6.5 – as it would then be acidic enough to corrode the metal parts in your pool equipment and it is just too far from the human body's pH of 7.4 to be comfortable for us to swim in. The compromise is therefore to obtain the best effectiveness of chlorine while ensuring bather comfort. (I.e. 7.2 to 7.6) Remember, if you let the pH drift out of this range, you will have to use much more chlorine to get adequate sanitation. 2. Bather comfort. At high pH, the water will make your eyes sting and possibly give you skin irritations. At low pH the impact on bathers is even more pronounced and red stinging eyes and chaffed skin in younger bathers may occur. 3. At high pH there are two dangers. a. The danger of scale forming on your pool surfaces, pipe work and fittings. This is because at a pH of around 8.0, the calcium in the water combines with carbonates in the water (Calcium carbonate or scale). b. Calcium carbonate can form into tiny particles and float around in the water giving it a cloudy, turbid appearance. 4. A low pH can corrode metals, damaging expensive equipment and leaving metal oxides to stain pool surfaces. Under certain conditions the precipitated (particulate) metals can even tint your blonde hair. Pools constructed with plaster are far more prone to wear and tear damages from low pH, and even if you cannot see it happen, tiny pit holes can form in the structure of the pool which opens up perfect breeding grounds for micro organisms and algae to form.
Conclusion
If you test nothing else always ensure that you are able to test pH & chlorine and that these tests are performed regularly and adjust accordingly. Effective ph control is far more economical and efficient than having to face; what would be required when your pH has been left unchecked and has been far out of range for extended periods of time.
Thursday, 23 February 2012
Chloramines - Combined chlorine problems
One of the most common causes of pool water problems in heated swimming pools is the presence of chloramines. Chloramines, also referred to as “combined-chlorines” , are molecules formed by the combination of chlorine in the form of Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl) and organic wastes (saliva, perspiration, urine) in the form nitrogen or ammonia. Chloramines produce the “chlorine odour” that many people do not like (tear gas is a form of Chloramines).
When people complain of “too much” chlorine, it is almost always a case of combined chlorine or chloramines as opposed to a proper level of Free Available Chlorine (FAC) that creates the odour. The misconception is that the pool “smells of chlorine”, therefore (in the pool owners mind) they have too much chlorine present in the pool. At this point they usually stop adding anything to the pool, effectively ignoring the problem. Pool owners are seldom convinced that their true problem is a “lack” of chlorine and in particular FAC.
Chloramines are the root cause of many problems in pool water. Chloramines cause problems because of their stability and persistence. This stability and persistence forms additional Chloramines. This is chlorine demand (consumption) at its finest. (Consumers complain that they “just shocked” the pool but there’s no chlorine showing when tested.) As more chlorine is added without reaching breakpoint oxidation, more chloramines are formed thereby exacerbating the problem leading to “obvious problems” such as cloudy water or algae growth. Pool owners (and sometimes pool schools) unfamiliar with chloramines and chlorine demand, often try to treat the symptoms (cloudy water or algae) rather than dealing with the root cause. Without this awareness of chloramines & chlorine demand, pool owners may never receive the help they need.
Associated problems
Chloramines (combined chlorine) are poor sanitisers. The presence of chloramines (and dichloramines/ trichloramines) causes the following physical symptoms:
• red, burning eyes;
• burning sensation in nose, throat and lungs;
• dry, itchy skin and dry hair;
• Breathing difficulty, particularly in young children.
• A strong odour of chlorine around the pool
Furthermore, the pool has a tendency to become cloudy or green due to the low sanitising ability of the combined chlorine (chloramines).
Chlorine demand:
When chlorine is added to water, some of it is soon consumed by destroying algae, bacteria and other oxidisible material in the water. The amount of chlorine so consumed is referred to as the chlorine demand of the water. Only once the chlorine demand is satisfied, can any additional chlorine added be tested as a chlorine residual. Two types of chlorine residual can exist: 1. Free available chlorine residual - this is the chlorine available to do its job of sanitising the water. 2. Combined chlorine residual –this is chlorine combined with simple nitrogen compounds such as ammonia and urea. This chlorine (or more correctly chloramines) is not as nearly as effective as free available chlorine.
It’s essential to maintain a free available chlorine (FAC) residual at all times, to achieve sparkling clear, hygienic pool water. This is accomplished by regular shock treatment. Shock treatment (super chlorination) consists of simply adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine to burn out nitrogenous waste. When chloramines are removed by a shock treatment, better efficiency of chlorine is achieved. More of the chlorine residual can then exist as the free or active form, rather than as the less effective combined form.
Testing for chlorine in pool water
All good chlorine test kits and pool test strips allow you to determine free chlorine as well as total chlorine. Combined chlorine is calculated from these values as follows:
Combined chlorine = total chlorine - free chlorine
The combined chlorine value should ideally be as close to zero as possible. Some cheaper test kits use liquid reagents (drops. If the reagent bottle is marked "OTO" then you should consider a better test kit. OTO (orthotolodine) using a yellow colour chart, will show only Total Chlorine, not differentiating the difference between FAC and chloramines present. Chlorine testing using the more accurate DPD tests, using a pink colour chart, provides separate tests for Free Chlorine as well as Total Chlorine and is therefore preferable.
Destroying combined chlorine compounds
The appropriate amount of chlorine needed to reach breakpoint oxidation – usually recognized as 10 ppm FAC (free available chlorine) to correct each 1.0 ppm of combined chlorine. Failing to reach this level actually contributes to the chlorine demand problem as more chloramines are formed. Your pool professional may advise you to put in a larger than normal dose of shock treatment in your cloudy pool. When chloramines exist, this is necessary in order to reach breakpoint oxidation. Breakpoint oxidation is simply a level of 10 or more times of chlorine compared to that of the combined chlorine level. That means potentially adding large amounts of shock at one time! Yes, at one time!
Reaching breakpoint chlorination is an “all or nothing” action. Think of it as trying to jump across a divide; you can’t “come close”. You must reach the other side. You can’t “almost make it.” Whether you’re 5 centimetres short or 50 metres short, you still did not make it, and along with it comes the fall.
Conclusion
This is why we constantly remind consumers of the need to “shock” their pools. Weekly shocking during the summer months when the pool is in use will greatly reduce the potential of chlorine demand and may potentially even reduce consumption in the long run.
When people complain of “too much” chlorine, it is almost always a case of combined chlorine or chloramines as opposed to a proper level of Free Available Chlorine (FAC) that creates the odour. The misconception is that the pool “smells of chlorine”, therefore (in the pool owners mind) they have too much chlorine present in the pool. At this point they usually stop adding anything to the pool, effectively ignoring the problem. Pool owners are seldom convinced that their true problem is a “lack” of chlorine and in particular FAC.
Chloramines are the root cause of many problems in pool water. Chloramines cause problems because of their stability and persistence. This stability and persistence forms additional Chloramines. This is chlorine demand (consumption) at its finest. (Consumers complain that they “just shocked” the pool but there’s no chlorine showing when tested.) As more chlorine is added without reaching breakpoint oxidation, more chloramines are formed thereby exacerbating the problem leading to “obvious problems” such as cloudy water or algae growth. Pool owners (and sometimes pool schools) unfamiliar with chloramines and chlorine demand, often try to treat the symptoms (cloudy water or algae) rather than dealing with the root cause. Without this awareness of chloramines & chlorine demand, pool owners may never receive the help they need.
Associated problems
Chloramines (combined chlorine) are poor sanitisers. The presence of chloramines (and dichloramines/ trichloramines) causes the following physical symptoms:
• red, burning eyes;
• burning sensation in nose, throat and lungs;
• dry, itchy skin and dry hair;
• Breathing difficulty, particularly in young children.
• A strong odour of chlorine around the pool
Furthermore, the pool has a tendency to become cloudy or green due to the low sanitising ability of the combined chlorine (chloramines).
Chlorine demand:
When chlorine is added to water, some of it is soon consumed by destroying algae, bacteria and other oxidisible material in the water. The amount of chlorine so consumed is referred to as the chlorine demand of the water. Only once the chlorine demand is satisfied, can any additional chlorine added be tested as a chlorine residual. Two types of chlorine residual can exist: 1. Free available chlorine residual - this is the chlorine available to do its job of sanitising the water. 2. Combined chlorine residual –this is chlorine combined with simple nitrogen compounds such as ammonia and urea. This chlorine (or more correctly chloramines) is not as nearly as effective as free available chlorine.
It’s essential to maintain a free available chlorine (FAC) residual at all times, to achieve sparkling clear, hygienic pool water. This is accomplished by regular shock treatment. Shock treatment (super chlorination) consists of simply adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine to burn out nitrogenous waste. When chloramines are removed by a shock treatment, better efficiency of chlorine is achieved. More of the chlorine residual can then exist as the free or active form, rather than as the less effective combined form.
Testing for chlorine in pool water
All good chlorine test kits and pool test strips allow you to determine free chlorine as well as total chlorine. Combined chlorine is calculated from these values as follows:
Combined chlorine = total chlorine - free chlorine
The combined chlorine value should ideally be as close to zero as possible. Some cheaper test kits use liquid reagents (drops. If the reagent bottle is marked "OTO" then you should consider a better test kit. OTO (orthotolodine) using a yellow colour chart, will show only Total Chlorine, not differentiating the difference between FAC and chloramines present. Chlorine testing using the more accurate DPD tests, using a pink colour chart, provides separate tests for Free Chlorine as well as Total Chlorine and is therefore preferable.
Destroying combined chlorine compounds
The appropriate amount of chlorine needed to reach breakpoint oxidation – usually recognized as 10 ppm FAC (free available chlorine) to correct each 1.0 ppm of combined chlorine. Failing to reach this level actually contributes to the chlorine demand problem as more chloramines are formed. Your pool professional may advise you to put in a larger than normal dose of shock treatment in your cloudy pool. When chloramines exist, this is necessary in order to reach breakpoint oxidation. Breakpoint oxidation is simply a level of 10 or more times of chlorine compared to that of the combined chlorine level. That means potentially adding large amounts of shock at one time! Yes, at one time!
Reaching breakpoint chlorination is an “all or nothing” action. Think of it as trying to jump across a divide; you can’t “come close”. You must reach the other side. You can’t “almost make it.” Whether you’re 5 centimetres short or 50 metres short, you still did not make it, and along with it comes the fall.
Conclusion
This is why we constantly remind consumers of the need to “shock” their pools. Weekly shocking during the summer months when the pool is in use will greatly reduce the potential of chlorine demand and may potentially even reduce consumption in the long run.
Wednesday, 22 February 2012
Finding a leak in a vinyl liner pool.
Finding a leak in a vinyl liner pool.
If you own a vinyl pool, there will come a time when the vinyl develops a tear or a leak. Through age and use, vinyl pools can develop cracks or simply dry out and break because of the constant exposure to the sun.Vinyl liners must be kept full of water at all times to minimise the UV effect on the vinyl. Water chemistry is also very important as a low ph can cause wrinkling in liner and can be very destructive in a vinyl pool.
Finding a leak in your pool can be a difficult task but here are some steps to follow that will make it easier to find out if you have one. A major cause of water loss in vinyl pools could be splash out, so make sure this is not the case before looking for a leak that does not exist. We assume that you have considered other causes of leaks besides the liner (see our blog topic 6 February 2012: How do I know, if my pool has a leak?).
Inspect the liner of your swimming pool for any signs of wear or leakage. Locate the area that the leak is coming from. You can identify an area that is leaking by walking around the pool to see if there are any wet or soft spots on your lawn or in the area around the pool.
Look at the inside of your pool to locate any signs of tears / holes or indentations behind the liner that was not previously there. Diving with a mask is often the best way to see the leak especially if you are not having luck just looking around the pool. Leaks in the floor will often show themselves as a clean spot where the dust or debris is drawn by the leaking water through the hole (if you are lucky the debris may even stick in the hole). This is best done with the pump having been off for some time so the water is still (windy days are a problem). Areas around seams, corners, steps, skimmer boxes, lights and aim flows are especially susceptible to leaks.
If you are not sure about a leak - use a dye, such as phenol red from a test kit. Squirt some dye in the suspected area and observe if it is drawn into the leak.
Once you have located the leak.
Trim a piece of liner from a
Vinyl Patch kit
so that the patch is about 20-40mm larger than the leak area. Remove the corners from the patch so that you have a round or oval shape without corners. Use a big enough patch to cover the tear or hole without being too excessive. Using an overly large patch is not advisable.
Sand the back of the patch with a piece of sandpaper to rough it up so that it adheres to the liner better. Spread a layer of vinyl glue on the roughed-up side of the patch and even it out so that the glue covers the entire area of the patch evenly. Using a small amount of vinyl glue on a cloth clean the area in the pool to be patched by rubbing it (this will remove the oxidised layer and make for better adhesion).
Place the patch over the tear/hole in the liner and smooth out the patch so that there are no creases or bubbles. Make sure that the patch is not moved in the process and hold it in position, for about 30 seconds. Vinyl glue works under water as well as out of water, so there is no need to drain the pool. Allow the patch to dry.
Remember; more than one leak may exist, so after repairing the leak, monitor the pool for a couple days to be sure that you have repaired all leaks.
Now you can enjoy your pool again without the worry of water loss and costs associated.
If you own a vinyl pool, there will come a time when the vinyl develops a tear or a leak. Through age and use, vinyl pools can develop cracks or simply dry out and break because of the constant exposure to the sun.Vinyl liners must be kept full of water at all times to minimise the UV effect on the vinyl. Water chemistry is also very important as a low ph can cause wrinkling in liner and can be very destructive in a vinyl pool.
Finding a leak in your pool can be a difficult task but here are some steps to follow that will make it easier to find out if you have one. A major cause of water loss in vinyl pools could be splash out, so make sure this is not the case before looking for a leak that does not exist. We assume that you have considered other causes of leaks besides the liner (see our blog topic 6 February 2012: How do I know, if my pool has a leak?).
Inspect the liner of your swimming pool for any signs of wear or leakage. Locate the area that the leak is coming from. You can identify an area that is leaking by walking around the pool to see if there are any wet or soft spots on your lawn or in the area around the pool.
Look at the inside of your pool to locate any signs of tears / holes or indentations behind the liner that was not previously there. Diving with a mask is often the best way to see the leak especially if you are not having luck just looking around the pool. Leaks in the floor will often show themselves as a clean spot where the dust or debris is drawn by the leaking water through the hole (if you are lucky the debris may even stick in the hole). This is best done with the pump having been off for some time so the water is still (windy days are a problem). Areas around seams, corners, steps, skimmer boxes, lights and aim flows are especially susceptible to leaks.
If you are not sure about a leak - use a dye, such as phenol red from a test kit. Squirt some dye in the suspected area and observe if it is drawn into the leak.
Once you have located the leak.
Trim a piece of liner from a
so that the patch is about 20-40mm larger than the leak area. Remove the corners from the patch so that you have a round or oval shape without corners. Use a big enough patch to cover the tear or hole without being too excessive. Using an overly large patch is not advisable.
Sand the back of the patch with a piece of sandpaper to rough it up so that it adheres to the liner better. Spread a layer of vinyl glue on the roughed-up side of the patch and even it out so that the glue covers the entire area of the patch evenly. Using a small amount of vinyl glue on a cloth clean the area in the pool to be patched by rubbing it (this will remove the oxidised layer and make for better adhesion).
Place the patch over the tear/hole in the liner and smooth out the patch so that there are no creases or bubbles. Make sure that the patch is not moved in the process and hold it in position, for about 30 seconds. Vinyl glue works under water as well as out of water, so there is no need to drain the pool. Allow the patch to dry.
Remember; more than one leak may exist, so after repairing the leak, monitor the pool for a couple days to be sure that you have repaired all leaks.
Now you can enjoy your pool again without the worry of water loss and costs associated.
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
Stabilised Chlorine - Friend or Foe?
Stabilised Chlorine - Friend or Foe?
Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) has been in use for almost 60 years and has been generally accepted as the most effective stabiliser of chlorine. The use of stabiliser is common in swimming pools around the world to reduce the loss of free chlorine by UV radiation. Up to 90% of chlorine residual may be lost within a few hours when exposed to sunlight. The addition of stabiliser may reduce this loss to only 10 to 15% of the total chlorine residual.
Many studies and investigations have been conducted to prove that stabiliser reduces the efficacy of chlorine. Studies have even been funded by manufacturers of competitive products.
In laboratory experiments, it was found that stabiliser resulted in the need for greater quantities of chlorine to achieve the same effect as lower chlorine concentrations without stabiliser (E. B. Robinton and E. W. Mood, American Public Health Association, 1965).However, other studies performed under swimming pool conditions, reported that stabiliser did not reduce the efficiency of chlorine, but in some instances actually improved the efficiency.
1. Sommerfeld and Adamson 1981. Cyanuric acid, used as chlorine stabiliser in swimming pool water, it seems has a relatively minor effect on the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine. The toxicity of free available chlorine to 3 typical types of swimming pool algae was reduced slightly by 25 ppm of stabiliser, but then less than ideal levels of chlorine were employed in the test. Higher stabiliser concentrations (up to 200ppm) generally resulted in no further reduction in the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine.
2. Robinton and Mood 1967 found no significant difference in the bactericidal activity of calcium hypochlorite and trichloroisocyanurates when the concentration of these compounds was expressed as free available chlorine
3. Kowalski and Hilton 1966. found that pools treated with stabilised chlorine have a better disinfection record than pools treated with chlorine gas or calcium hypochlorite.
4. Hodge 1959. found no toxicity to rats and dogs from sodium dichloroisocyanurate, one of the forms most commonly used to disinfect swimming pool water.
5. Clayton & Clayton 1981-1982. The immersion of the entire forearms of 10 individuals in a neutralized trichloroisocyanuric acid solution (100 ppm as available chlorine) 8 times daily for 7 days caused no irritation.
Results of research are often inconclusive or even contradictory thus cyanuric acid appears as both inhibitors and activators of chlorine. In practice and in the real world of outdoor swimming pool sanitising only benefits have been experienced with the use of stabiliser.
What is cyanuric acid? Cyanuric acid is marketed as a “Stabiliser” for swimming pools. What does stabiliser do? Stabiliser forms a weak bond with free chlorine in the pool water, protecting it from the sun’s ultraviolet rays to reduce chlorine loss. Properly managed, stabiliser has been shown to reduce the chlorine needed to maintain the ideal chlorine residual in an outdoor pool.
What are dichlor and trichlor? Dichlor and trichlor, also known as chlorinated isocyanurates, are two solid chlorine compounds that are widely used in outdoor and indoor swimming pools. Dichlor and trichlor contain both chlorine and stabiliser so it is not necessary to add stabiliser to the pool water. Dichlor usually comes in a granular form and is marketed for the residential swimming pool market. Trichlor is often sold in a tablet form for use in an erosion feeder.
I have an indoor pool. Should I use stabiliser? No there is no need. Remember that stabiliser is intended to reduce the loss of free chlorine caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Indoor pools are not exposed to direct sunlight and therefore, there is no benefit in adding stabiliser to the pool water. How much stabiliser should be used in a swimming pool? Most pool chemical suppliers recommend that the optimal range for cyanuric acid is around 40 ppm. At levels above 50 ppm, pools reach the point of diminishing returns where the cost of buying stabiliser outweighs the benefit.
How much is too much stabiliser? Some international standards have set the maximum level at 100 ppm. However as previously stated no significant disadvantages are recorded even at much higher levels. How does one test for stabiliser? Any pool professional should be able to assist with these tests.
My pool has stabiliser levels above 100 ppm. Do I have to reduce them? The question is; are you experiencing problems with the pool and have you eliminated other factors such as a high TDS, combined chlorine, phosphates and chlorine demand problems. The traditional solution to supposed high stabiliser levels (“chlorine lock”) is to drain the pool. Clearly this solution will correct almost any problem that may exist. When this solution is suggested to you, make sure that it is your only course of action and that you are not unnecessarily wasting water. If you are not experiencing a problem, do not drain the pool – the naysayers will have it that the problem will occur but in the majority of cases this never happens, and when it does, it is usually related to other factors.
Recommendations 1 Stabiliser and stabilised chlorine (dichlor or trichlor) should be used in outdoor swimming pools to reduce the operating cost and maintain the hygiene effect by enhancing the longevity of chlorine in the presence of sunlight. 2. Both dichlor and trichlor also release stabiliser to the pool water. It is usually not necessary to add additional cyanuric acid into a pool that uses dichlor or trichlor. 3. Cyanuric acid should be tested at the beginning of each summer season and adjusted to at least 30 ppm for best effect during the season. 4. Pools that use stabiliser should, like all pools, maintain a free chlorine residual of 1- 3 ppm. 5. Most importantly, regularly have your pool water tested by a Pool Professional with a computerised water testing facility and ensure that your pool water remains chemically balanced for best results.
Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) has been in use for almost 60 years and has been generally accepted as the most effective stabiliser of chlorine. The use of stabiliser is common in swimming pools around the world to reduce the loss of free chlorine by UV radiation. Up to 90% of chlorine residual may be lost within a few hours when exposed to sunlight. The addition of stabiliser may reduce this loss to only 10 to 15% of the total chlorine residual.
Many studies and investigations have been conducted to prove that stabiliser reduces the efficacy of chlorine. Studies have even been funded by manufacturers of competitive products.
In laboratory experiments, it was found that stabiliser resulted in the need for greater quantities of chlorine to achieve the same effect as lower chlorine concentrations without stabiliser (E. B. Robinton and E. W. Mood, American Public Health Association, 1965).However, other studies performed under swimming pool conditions, reported that stabiliser did not reduce the efficiency of chlorine, but in some instances actually improved the efficiency.
1. Sommerfeld and Adamson 1981. Cyanuric acid, used as chlorine stabiliser in swimming pool water, it seems has a relatively minor effect on the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine. The toxicity of free available chlorine to 3 typical types of swimming pool algae was reduced slightly by 25 ppm of stabiliser, but then less than ideal levels of chlorine were employed in the test. Higher stabiliser concentrations (up to 200ppm) generally resulted in no further reduction in the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine.
2. Robinton and Mood 1967 found no significant difference in the bactericidal activity of calcium hypochlorite and trichloroisocyanurates when the concentration of these compounds was expressed as free available chlorine
3. Kowalski and Hilton 1966. found that pools treated with stabilised chlorine have a better disinfection record than pools treated with chlorine gas or calcium hypochlorite.
4. Hodge 1959. found no toxicity to rats and dogs from sodium dichloroisocyanurate, one of the forms most commonly used to disinfect swimming pool water.
5. Clayton & Clayton 1981-1982. The immersion of the entire forearms of 10 individuals in a neutralized trichloroisocyanuric acid solution (100 ppm as available chlorine) 8 times daily for 7 days caused no irritation.
Results of research are often inconclusive or even contradictory thus cyanuric acid appears as both inhibitors and activators of chlorine. In practice and in the real world of outdoor swimming pool sanitising only benefits have been experienced with the use of stabiliser.
What is cyanuric acid? Cyanuric acid is marketed as a “Stabiliser” for swimming pools. What does stabiliser do? Stabiliser forms a weak bond with free chlorine in the pool water, protecting it from the sun’s ultraviolet rays to reduce chlorine loss. Properly managed, stabiliser has been shown to reduce the chlorine needed to maintain the ideal chlorine residual in an outdoor pool.
What are dichlor and trichlor? Dichlor and trichlor, also known as chlorinated isocyanurates, are two solid chlorine compounds that are widely used in outdoor and indoor swimming pools. Dichlor and trichlor contain both chlorine and stabiliser so it is not necessary to add stabiliser to the pool water. Dichlor usually comes in a granular form and is marketed for the residential swimming pool market. Trichlor is often sold in a tablet form for use in an erosion feeder.
I have an indoor pool. Should I use stabiliser? No there is no need. Remember that stabiliser is intended to reduce the loss of free chlorine caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Indoor pools are not exposed to direct sunlight and therefore, there is no benefit in adding stabiliser to the pool water. How much stabiliser should be used in a swimming pool? Most pool chemical suppliers recommend that the optimal range for cyanuric acid is around 40 ppm. At levels above 50 ppm, pools reach the point of diminishing returns where the cost of buying stabiliser outweighs the benefit.
How much is too much stabiliser? Some international standards have set the maximum level at 100 ppm. However as previously stated no significant disadvantages are recorded even at much higher levels. How does one test for stabiliser? Any pool professional should be able to assist with these tests.
My pool has stabiliser levels above 100 ppm. Do I have to reduce them? The question is; are you experiencing problems with the pool and have you eliminated other factors such as a high TDS, combined chlorine, phosphates and chlorine demand problems. The traditional solution to supposed high stabiliser levels (“chlorine lock”) is to drain the pool. Clearly this solution will correct almost any problem that may exist. When this solution is suggested to you, make sure that it is your only course of action and that you are not unnecessarily wasting water. If you are not experiencing a problem, do not drain the pool – the naysayers will have it that the problem will occur but in the majority of cases this never happens, and when it does, it is usually related to other factors.
Recommendations 1 Stabiliser and stabilised chlorine (dichlor or trichlor) should be used in outdoor swimming pools to reduce the operating cost and maintain the hygiene effect by enhancing the longevity of chlorine in the presence of sunlight. 2. Both dichlor and trichlor also release stabiliser to the pool water. It is usually not necessary to add additional cyanuric acid into a pool that uses dichlor or trichlor. 3. Cyanuric acid should be tested at the beginning of each summer season and adjusted to at least 30 ppm for best effect during the season. 4. Pools that use stabiliser should, like all pools, maintain a free chlorine residual of 1- 3 ppm. 5. Most importantly, regularly have your pool water tested by a Pool Professional with a computerised water testing facility and ensure that your pool water remains chemically balanced for best results.
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