One of the most common causes of pool water problems in heated swimming pools is the presence of chloramines. Chloramines, also referred to as “combined-chlorines” , are molecules formed by the combination of chlorine in the form of Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl) and organic wastes (saliva, perspiration, urine) in the form nitrogen or ammonia. Chloramines produce the “chlorine odour” that many people do not like (tear gas is a form of Chloramines).
When people complain of “too much” chlorine, it is almost always a case of combined chlorine or chloramines as opposed to a proper level of Free Available Chlorine (FAC) that creates the odour. The misconception is that the pool “smells of chlorine”, therefore (in the pool owners mind) they have too much chlorine present in the pool. At this point they usually stop adding anything to the pool, effectively ignoring the problem. Pool owners are seldom convinced that their true problem is a “lack” of chlorine and in particular FAC.
Chloramines are the root cause of many problems in pool water. Chloramines cause problems because of their stability and persistence. This stability and persistence forms additional Chloramines. This is chlorine demand (consumption) at its finest. (Consumers complain that they “just shocked” the pool but there’s no chlorine showing when tested.) As more chlorine is added without reaching breakpoint oxidation, more chloramines are formed thereby exacerbating the problem leading to “obvious problems” such as cloudy water or algae growth. Pool owners (and sometimes pool schools) unfamiliar with chloramines and chlorine demand, often try to treat the symptoms (cloudy water or algae) rather than dealing with the root cause. Without this awareness of chloramines & chlorine demand, pool owners may never receive the help they need.
Associated problems
Chloramines (combined chlorine) are poor sanitisers. The presence of chloramines (and dichloramines/ trichloramines) causes the following physical symptoms:
• red, burning eyes;
• burning sensation in nose, throat and lungs;
• dry, itchy skin and dry hair;
• Breathing difficulty, particularly in young children.
• A strong odour of chlorine around the pool
Furthermore, the pool has a tendency to become cloudy or green due to the low sanitising ability of the combined chlorine (chloramines).
Chlorine demand:
When chlorine is added to water, some of it is soon consumed by destroying algae, bacteria and other oxidisible material in the water. The amount of chlorine so consumed is referred to as the chlorine demand of the water. Only once the chlorine demand is satisfied, can any additional chlorine added be tested as a chlorine residual. Two types of chlorine residual can exist: 1. Free available chlorine residual - this is the chlorine available to do its job of sanitising the water. 2. Combined chlorine residual –this is chlorine combined with simple nitrogen compounds such as ammonia and urea. This chlorine (or more correctly chloramines) is not as nearly as effective as free available chlorine.
It’s essential to maintain a free available chlorine (FAC) residual at all times, to achieve sparkling clear, hygienic pool water. This is accomplished by regular shock treatment. Shock treatment (super chlorination) consists of simply adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine to burn out nitrogenous waste. When chloramines are removed by a shock treatment, better efficiency of chlorine is achieved. More of the chlorine residual can then exist as the free or active form, rather than as the less effective combined form.
Testing for chlorine in pool water
All good chlorine test kits and pool test strips allow you to determine free chlorine as well as total chlorine. Combined chlorine is calculated from these values as follows:
Combined chlorine = total chlorine - free chlorine
The combined chlorine value should ideally be as close to zero as possible. Some cheaper test kits use liquid reagents (drops. If the reagent bottle is marked "OTO" then you should consider a better test kit. OTO (orthotolodine) using a yellow colour chart, will show only Total Chlorine, not differentiating the difference between FAC and chloramines present. Chlorine testing using the more accurate DPD tests, using a pink colour chart, provides separate tests for Free Chlorine as well as Total Chlorine and is therefore preferable.
Destroying combined chlorine compounds
The appropriate amount of chlorine needed to reach breakpoint oxidation – usually recognized as 10 ppm FAC (free available chlorine) to correct each 1.0 ppm of combined chlorine. Failing to reach this level actually contributes to the chlorine demand problem as more chloramines are formed. Your pool professional may advise you to put in a larger than normal dose of shock treatment in your cloudy pool. When chloramines exist, this is necessary in order to reach breakpoint oxidation. Breakpoint oxidation is simply a level of 10 or more times of chlorine compared to that of the combined chlorine level. That means potentially adding large amounts of shock at one time! Yes, at one time!
Reaching breakpoint chlorination is an “all or nothing” action. Think of it as trying to jump across a divide; you can’t “come close”. You must reach the other side. You can’t “almost make it.” Whether you’re 5 centimetres short or 50 metres short, you still did not make it, and along with it comes the fall.
Conclusion
This is why we constantly remind consumers of the need to “shock” their pools. Weekly shocking during the summer months when the pool is in use will greatly reduce the potential of chlorine demand and may potentially even reduce consumption in the long run.
Thursday, 23 February 2012
Wednesday, 22 February 2012
Finding a leak in a vinyl liner pool.
Finding a leak in a vinyl liner pool.
If you own a vinyl pool, there will come a time when the vinyl develops a tear or a leak. Through age and use, vinyl pools can develop cracks or simply dry out and break because of the constant exposure to the sun.Vinyl liners must be kept full of water at all times to minimise the UV effect on the vinyl. Water chemistry is also very important as a low ph can cause wrinkling in liner and can be very destructive in a vinyl pool.
Finding a leak in your pool can be a difficult task but here are some steps to follow that will make it easier to find out if you have one. A major cause of water loss in vinyl pools could be splash out, so make sure this is not the case before looking for a leak that does not exist. We assume that you have considered other causes of leaks besides the liner (see our blog topic 6 February 2012: How do I know, if my pool has a leak?).
Inspect the liner of your swimming pool for any signs of wear or leakage. Locate the area that the leak is coming from. You can identify an area that is leaking by walking around the pool to see if there are any wet or soft spots on your lawn or in the area around the pool.
Look at the inside of your pool to locate any signs of tears / holes or indentations behind the liner that was not previously there. Diving with a mask is often the best way to see the leak especially if you are not having luck just looking around the pool. Leaks in the floor will often show themselves as a clean spot where the dust or debris is drawn by the leaking water through the hole (if you are lucky the debris may even stick in the hole). This is best done with the pump having been off for some time so the water is still (windy days are a problem). Areas around seams, corners, steps, skimmer boxes, lights and aim flows are especially susceptible to leaks.
If you are not sure about a leak - use a dye, such as phenol red from a test kit. Squirt some dye in the suspected area and observe if it is drawn into the leak.
Once you have located the leak.
Trim a piece of liner from a
Vinyl Patch kit
so that the patch is about 20-40mm larger than the leak area. Remove the corners from the patch so that you have a round or oval shape without corners. Use a big enough patch to cover the tear or hole without being too excessive. Using an overly large patch is not advisable.
Sand the back of the patch with a piece of sandpaper to rough it up so that it adheres to the liner better. Spread a layer of vinyl glue on the roughed-up side of the patch and even it out so that the glue covers the entire area of the patch evenly. Using a small amount of vinyl glue on a cloth clean the area in the pool to be patched by rubbing it (this will remove the oxidised layer and make for better adhesion).
Place the patch over the tear/hole in the liner and smooth out the patch so that there are no creases or bubbles. Make sure that the patch is not moved in the process and hold it in position, for about 30 seconds. Vinyl glue works under water as well as out of water, so there is no need to drain the pool. Allow the patch to dry.
Remember; more than one leak may exist, so after repairing the leak, monitor the pool for a couple days to be sure that you have repaired all leaks.
Now you can enjoy your pool again without the worry of water loss and costs associated.
If you own a vinyl pool, there will come a time when the vinyl develops a tear or a leak. Through age and use, vinyl pools can develop cracks or simply dry out and break because of the constant exposure to the sun.Vinyl liners must be kept full of water at all times to minimise the UV effect on the vinyl. Water chemistry is also very important as a low ph can cause wrinkling in liner and can be very destructive in a vinyl pool.
Finding a leak in your pool can be a difficult task but here are some steps to follow that will make it easier to find out if you have one. A major cause of water loss in vinyl pools could be splash out, so make sure this is not the case before looking for a leak that does not exist. We assume that you have considered other causes of leaks besides the liner (see our blog topic 6 February 2012: How do I know, if my pool has a leak?).
Inspect the liner of your swimming pool for any signs of wear or leakage. Locate the area that the leak is coming from. You can identify an area that is leaking by walking around the pool to see if there are any wet or soft spots on your lawn or in the area around the pool.
Look at the inside of your pool to locate any signs of tears / holes or indentations behind the liner that was not previously there. Diving with a mask is often the best way to see the leak especially if you are not having luck just looking around the pool. Leaks in the floor will often show themselves as a clean spot where the dust or debris is drawn by the leaking water through the hole (if you are lucky the debris may even stick in the hole). This is best done with the pump having been off for some time so the water is still (windy days are a problem). Areas around seams, corners, steps, skimmer boxes, lights and aim flows are especially susceptible to leaks.
If you are not sure about a leak - use a dye, such as phenol red from a test kit. Squirt some dye in the suspected area and observe if it is drawn into the leak.
Once you have located the leak.
Trim a piece of liner from a
so that the patch is about 20-40mm larger than the leak area. Remove the corners from the patch so that you have a round or oval shape without corners. Use a big enough patch to cover the tear or hole without being too excessive. Using an overly large patch is not advisable.
Sand the back of the patch with a piece of sandpaper to rough it up so that it adheres to the liner better. Spread a layer of vinyl glue on the roughed-up side of the patch and even it out so that the glue covers the entire area of the patch evenly. Using a small amount of vinyl glue on a cloth clean the area in the pool to be patched by rubbing it (this will remove the oxidised layer and make for better adhesion).
Place the patch over the tear/hole in the liner and smooth out the patch so that there are no creases or bubbles. Make sure that the patch is not moved in the process and hold it in position, for about 30 seconds. Vinyl glue works under water as well as out of water, so there is no need to drain the pool. Allow the patch to dry.
Remember; more than one leak may exist, so after repairing the leak, monitor the pool for a couple days to be sure that you have repaired all leaks.
Now you can enjoy your pool again without the worry of water loss and costs associated.
Tuesday, 14 February 2012
Stabilised Chlorine - Friend or Foe?
Stabilised Chlorine - Friend or Foe?
Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) has been in use for almost 60 years and has been generally accepted as the most effective stabiliser of chlorine. The use of stabiliser is common in swimming pools around the world to reduce the loss of free chlorine by UV radiation. Up to 90% of chlorine residual may be lost within a few hours when exposed to sunlight. The addition of stabiliser may reduce this loss to only 10 to 15% of the total chlorine residual.
Many studies and investigations have been conducted to prove that stabiliser reduces the efficacy of chlorine. Studies have even been funded by manufacturers of competitive products.
In laboratory experiments, it was found that stabiliser resulted in the need for greater quantities of chlorine to achieve the same effect as lower chlorine concentrations without stabiliser (E. B. Robinton and E. W. Mood, American Public Health Association, 1965).However, other studies performed under swimming pool conditions, reported that stabiliser did not reduce the efficiency of chlorine, but in some instances actually improved the efficiency.
1. Sommerfeld and Adamson 1981. Cyanuric acid, used as chlorine stabiliser in swimming pool water, it seems has a relatively minor effect on the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine. The toxicity of free available chlorine to 3 typical types of swimming pool algae was reduced slightly by 25 ppm of stabiliser, but then less than ideal levels of chlorine were employed in the test. Higher stabiliser concentrations (up to 200ppm) generally resulted in no further reduction in the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine.
2. Robinton and Mood 1967 found no significant difference in the bactericidal activity of calcium hypochlorite and trichloroisocyanurates when the concentration of these compounds was expressed as free available chlorine
3. Kowalski and Hilton 1966. found that pools treated with stabilised chlorine have a better disinfection record than pools treated with chlorine gas or calcium hypochlorite.
4. Hodge 1959. found no toxicity to rats and dogs from sodium dichloroisocyanurate, one of the forms most commonly used to disinfect swimming pool water.
5. Clayton & Clayton 1981-1982. The immersion of the entire forearms of 10 individuals in a neutralized trichloroisocyanuric acid solution (100 ppm as available chlorine) 8 times daily for 7 days caused no irritation.
Results of research are often inconclusive or even contradictory thus cyanuric acid appears as both inhibitors and activators of chlorine. In practice and in the real world of outdoor swimming pool sanitising only benefits have been experienced with the use of stabiliser.
What is cyanuric acid? Cyanuric acid is marketed as a “Stabiliser” for swimming pools. What does stabiliser do? Stabiliser forms a weak bond with free chlorine in the pool water, protecting it from the sun’s ultraviolet rays to reduce chlorine loss. Properly managed, stabiliser has been shown to reduce the chlorine needed to maintain the ideal chlorine residual in an outdoor pool.
What are dichlor and trichlor? Dichlor and trichlor, also known as chlorinated isocyanurates, are two solid chlorine compounds that are widely used in outdoor and indoor swimming pools. Dichlor and trichlor contain both chlorine and stabiliser so it is not necessary to add stabiliser to the pool water. Dichlor usually comes in a granular form and is marketed for the residential swimming pool market. Trichlor is often sold in a tablet form for use in an erosion feeder.
I have an indoor pool. Should I use stabiliser? No there is no need. Remember that stabiliser is intended to reduce the loss of free chlorine caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Indoor pools are not exposed to direct sunlight and therefore, there is no benefit in adding stabiliser to the pool water. How much stabiliser should be used in a swimming pool? Most pool chemical suppliers recommend that the optimal range for cyanuric acid is around 40 ppm. At levels above 50 ppm, pools reach the point of diminishing returns where the cost of buying stabiliser outweighs the benefit.
How much is too much stabiliser? Some international standards have set the maximum level at 100 ppm. However as previously stated no significant disadvantages are recorded even at much higher levels. How does one test for stabiliser? Any pool professional should be able to assist with these tests.
My pool has stabiliser levels above 100 ppm. Do I have to reduce them? The question is; are you experiencing problems with the pool and have you eliminated other factors such as a high TDS, combined chlorine, phosphates and chlorine demand problems. The traditional solution to supposed high stabiliser levels (“chlorine lock”) is to drain the pool. Clearly this solution will correct almost any problem that may exist. When this solution is suggested to you, make sure that it is your only course of action and that you are not unnecessarily wasting water. If you are not experiencing a problem, do not drain the pool – the naysayers will have it that the problem will occur but in the majority of cases this never happens, and when it does, it is usually related to other factors.
Recommendations 1 Stabiliser and stabilised chlorine (dichlor or trichlor) should be used in outdoor swimming pools to reduce the operating cost and maintain the hygiene effect by enhancing the longevity of chlorine in the presence of sunlight. 2. Both dichlor and trichlor also release stabiliser to the pool water. It is usually not necessary to add additional cyanuric acid into a pool that uses dichlor or trichlor. 3. Cyanuric acid should be tested at the beginning of each summer season and adjusted to at least 30 ppm for best effect during the season. 4. Pools that use stabiliser should, like all pools, maintain a free chlorine residual of 1- 3 ppm. 5. Most importantly, regularly have your pool water tested by a Pool Professional with a computerised water testing facility and ensure that your pool water remains chemically balanced for best results.
Cyanuric acid (stabiliser) has been in use for almost 60 years and has been generally accepted as the most effective stabiliser of chlorine. The use of stabiliser is common in swimming pools around the world to reduce the loss of free chlorine by UV radiation. Up to 90% of chlorine residual may be lost within a few hours when exposed to sunlight. The addition of stabiliser may reduce this loss to only 10 to 15% of the total chlorine residual.
Many studies and investigations have been conducted to prove that stabiliser reduces the efficacy of chlorine. Studies have even been funded by manufacturers of competitive products.
In laboratory experiments, it was found that stabiliser resulted in the need for greater quantities of chlorine to achieve the same effect as lower chlorine concentrations without stabiliser (E. B. Robinton and E. W. Mood, American Public Health Association, 1965).However, other studies performed under swimming pool conditions, reported that stabiliser did not reduce the efficiency of chlorine, but in some instances actually improved the efficiency.
1. Sommerfeld and Adamson 1981. Cyanuric acid, used as chlorine stabiliser in swimming pool water, it seems has a relatively minor effect on the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine. The toxicity of free available chlorine to 3 typical types of swimming pool algae was reduced slightly by 25 ppm of stabiliser, but then less than ideal levels of chlorine were employed in the test. Higher stabiliser concentrations (up to 200ppm) generally resulted in no further reduction in the algicidal efficiency of free available chlorine.
2. Robinton and Mood 1967 found no significant difference in the bactericidal activity of calcium hypochlorite and trichloroisocyanurates when the concentration of these compounds was expressed as free available chlorine
3. Kowalski and Hilton 1966. found that pools treated with stabilised chlorine have a better disinfection record than pools treated with chlorine gas or calcium hypochlorite.
4. Hodge 1959. found no toxicity to rats and dogs from sodium dichloroisocyanurate, one of the forms most commonly used to disinfect swimming pool water.
5. Clayton & Clayton 1981-1982. The immersion of the entire forearms of 10 individuals in a neutralized trichloroisocyanuric acid solution (100 ppm as available chlorine) 8 times daily for 7 days caused no irritation.
Results of research are often inconclusive or even contradictory thus cyanuric acid appears as both inhibitors and activators of chlorine. In practice and in the real world of outdoor swimming pool sanitising only benefits have been experienced with the use of stabiliser.
What is cyanuric acid? Cyanuric acid is marketed as a “Stabiliser” for swimming pools. What does stabiliser do? Stabiliser forms a weak bond with free chlorine in the pool water, protecting it from the sun’s ultraviolet rays to reduce chlorine loss. Properly managed, stabiliser has been shown to reduce the chlorine needed to maintain the ideal chlorine residual in an outdoor pool.
What are dichlor and trichlor? Dichlor and trichlor, also known as chlorinated isocyanurates, are two solid chlorine compounds that are widely used in outdoor and indoor swimming pools. Dichlor and trichlor contain both chlorine and stabiliser so it is not necessary to add stabiliser to the pool water. Dichlor usually comes in a granular form and is marketed for the residential swimming pool market. Trichlor is often sold in a tablet form for use in an erosion feeder.
I have an indoor pool. Should I use stabiliser? No there is no need. Remember that stabiliser is intended to reduce the loss of free chlorine caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Indoor pools are not exposed to direct sunlight and therefore, there is no benefit in adding stabiliser to the pool water. How much stabiliser should be used in a swimming pool? Most pool chemical suppliers recommend that the optimal range for cyanuric acid is around 40 ppm. At levels above 50 ppm, pools reach the point of diminishing returns where the cost of buying stabiliser outweighs the benefit.
How much is too much stabiliser? Some international standards have set the maximum level at 100 ppm. However as previously stated no significant disadvantages are recorded even at much higher levels. How does one test for stabiliser? Any pool professional should be able to assist with these tests.
My pool has stabiliser levels above 100 ppm. Do I have to reduce them? The question is; are you experiencing problems with the pool and have you eliminated other factors such as a high TDS, combined chlorine, phosphates and chlorine demand problems. The traditional solution to supposed high stabiliser levels (“chlorine lock”) is to drain the pool. Clearly this solution will correct almost any problem that may exist. When this solution is suggested to you, make sure that it is your only course of action and that you are not unnecessarily wasting water. If you are not experiencing a problem, do not drain the pool – the naysayers will have it that the problem will occur but in the majority of cases this never happens, and when it does, it is usually related to other factors.
Recommendations 1 Stabiliser and stabilised chlorine (dichlor or trichlor) should be used in outdoor swimming pools to reduce the operating cost and maintain the hygiene effect by enhancing the longevity of chlorine in the presence of sunlight. 2. Both dichlor and trichlor also release stabiliser to the pool water. It is usually not necessary to add additional cyanuric acid into a pool that uses dichlor or trichlor. 3. Cyanuric acid should be tested at the beginning of each summer season and adjusted to at least 30 ppm for best effect during the season. 4. Pools that use stabiliser should, like all pools, maintain a free chlorine residual of 1- 3 ppm. 5. Most importantly, regularly have your pool water tested by a Pool Professional with a computerised water testing facility and ensure that your pool water remains chemically balanced for best results.
Thursday, 9 February 2012
Valentines Day - Heart-Shaped Hot Tubs and Swimming Pools
Heart-Shaped Hot Tubs and Swimming Pools
Nothing Says 'Be Mine' Quite Like a Tub or Pool Built for Splashin' & Lovin'
By Lisa Hallett Taylor, About.com Guide
Maybe Jayne Mansfield and Mickey Hargitay sparked the concept with their heart-shaped swimming pool, which was custom-built for their Bel-Air backyard in the 1950s. Novelty-shaped swimming pools became popular for those who could afford them (like movie stars) in the mid-20th Century. While Mansfield also had a pink heart-shaped tub, in 1963 the "world's first" (for a hotel?) debuted at a resort in Pennsylvania's Poconos Mountains. The heart-shaped hot tub was featured in a 1971 issue of Life Magazine, along with its creator, Morris B. Wilkins, founder/CEO of the Poconos' Cove Haven Entertainment Resorts. With the growing popularity of hot tubs in the 1970s, the heart-shaped tubs helped drive traffic to the resort. Cove Haven and other Poconos resorts earned the destination the reputation as the "honeymoon capital of the world." Thinking of transforming your backyard into a romantic getaway? Perhaps this gallery will ignite the fires of passion needed for your next project. Amore!
http://poolandpatio.about.com/od/planningyourpool/ig/Heart-Shaped-Hot-Tub/?nl=1&nl=1&nl=1
Nothing Says 'Be Mine' Quite Like a Tub or Pool Built for Splashin' & Lovin'
By Lisa Hallett Taylor, About.com Guide
Maybe Jayne Mansfield and Mickey Hargitay sparked the concept with their heart-shaped swimming pool, which was custom-built for their Bel-Air backyard in the 1950s. Novelty-shaped swimming pools became popular for those who could afford them (like movie stars) in the mid-20th Century. While Mansfield also had a pink heart-shaped tub, in 1963 the "world's first" (for a hotel?) debuted at a resort in Pennsylvania's Poconos Mountains. The heart-shaped hot tub was featured in a 1971 issue of Life Magazine, along with its creator, Morris B. Wilkins, founder/CEO of the Poconos' Cove Haven Entertainment Resorts. With the growing popularity of hot tubs in the 1970s, the heart-shaped tubs helped drive traffic to the resort. Cove Haven and other Poconos resorts earned the destination the reputation as the "honeymoon capital of the world." Thinking of transforming your backyard into a romantic getaway? Perhaps this gallery will ignite the fires of passion needed for your next project. Amore!
Monday, 6 February 2012
How do I know, if my pool has a leak?
How Do I know, if my pool has a leak?
Your pool, like all swimming pools, will lose some water. The reasons for this loss of water are varied but may be due to; evaporation, some to splash-out and some to backwash wastewater or the pool could be leaking. Obviously your pool also gains water from rainfall. A rule of thumb is that if you're regularly adding more than 25-50mm of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. If you are uncertain about how much may be due to evaporation only, try the bucket test. The importance of repairing leaks is not only restricted to; saving water, heat, and chemicals, but a leak may also undermine your pool structure and wash away the back fill behind a fibreglass shell resulting in the potential for major damage.
The bucket test:
Fill a bucket with water from the pool and set it on the steps of your pool with the top of the bucket above water level. Make sure the level in the bucket corresponds with the pool water level. Use some tape or a pencil to mark the pool water level. This will keep the water in the bucket the same temperature as the pool. If you have a dog that drinks from the pool, keep this in mind when placing the bucket, or try to prevent this. Do not backwash during the test period. Now, compare the water loss between the bucket and your pool over a period of several days, the longer the better. Assuming that your bucket doesn't have a hole in it, and if you see a greater loss in the pool than in the bucket, you have a leak!
Where is the leak?
Pool leak repairs may require a pool professional. Having said this, it does not automatically follow that it will be expensive or that you are not in a position to minimise the costs. If you suspect that your pool is leaking reduce the potential costs and assist your pool professional by checking the following:
Is the pool leaking only with the pump is on?
This may indicate a pool leak on the return line. The first thing to check in this case is to see that there is no water dripping from your backwash pipe while the pump is running. A Leak of this nature would indicate a problem at the Multi Port valve of the filter. If this is not the problem, then drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near the aimflow jet, with your pump shut off and the water still. See if the dye is sucked into the aimflow. If dye is sucked in consistently over at least 20 – 30 seconds, then this is likely where the leak is.
Is the pool leaking only with the pump off?
This usually indicates a pool leak on the suction line. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum. Air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking points. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return aim flows, or a pool cleaner that is sluggish or often stops for no apparent reason. Check the pump basket lid is on tight with a good, clean o-ring, just to be sure. These symptoms after you check the pump lid o-ring would indicate a suction line leak.
Does the pool leak all the time?
This situation won’t eliminate the possibility of leaks in the pipe work, but it does get one to start considering the pool shell as a possibility. Look for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line and look real closely inside of the skimmer box / weir. Avery common leak is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with your pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under water lights can and do leak as well. Contact your pool professional for suitable products to seal the leak until permanent repairs can be undertaken if necessary.
Are there leaks at the pump / filter installation?
Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and valves. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.
Does the pool water level always drop to the same point without going further?
You may be able to switch the pump off and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. Where the water level stops, do a dye test around the pool on this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.
Are there any wet areas around the pool?
Take a walk around the pool's edge and between the pool and the equipment. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.
For pool leaks in a vinyl pool there are special considerations. Look out for our blog on this subject in the future.
Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course, these costs will be lower if you can identify the leak to your pool professional saving the time of all the tests. Higher prices will obviously be charged for below ground work, and remember you pool professional like you will not be able to tell if more than one leak exists. Many pools leak in more than one area so monitoring after repairs is important.
Your pool, like all swimming pools, will lose some water. The reasons for this loss of water are varied but may be due to; evaporation, some to splash-out and some to backwash wastewater or the pool could be leaking. Obviously your pool also gains water from rainfall. A rule of thumb is that if you're regularly adding more than 25-50mm of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak. If you are uncertain about how much may be due to evaporation only, try the bucket test. The importance of repairing leaks is not only restricted to; saving water, heat, and chemicals, but a leak may also undermine your pool structure and wash away the back fill behind a fibreglass shell resulting in the potential for major damage.
The bucket test:
Fill a bucket with water from the pool and set it on the steps of your pool with the top of the bucket above water level. Make sure the level in the bucket corresponds with the pool water level. Use some tape or a pencil to mark the pool water level. This will keep the water in the bucket the same temperature as the pool. If you have a dog that drinks from the pool, keep this in mind when placing the bucket, or try to prevent this. Do not backwash during the test period. Now, compare the water loss between the bucket and your pool over a period of several days, the longer the better. Assuming that your bucket doesn't have a hole in it, and if you see a greater loss in the pool than in the bucket, you have a leak!
Where is the leak?
Pool leak repairs may require a pool professional. Having said this, it does not automatically follow that it will be expensive or that you are not in a position to minimise the costs. If you suspect that your pool is leaking reduce the potential costs and assist your pool professional by checking the following:
Is the pool leaking only with the pump is on?
This may indicate a pool leak on the return line. The first thing to check in this case is to see that there is no water dripping from your backwash pipe while the pump is running. A Leak of this nature would indicate a problem at the Multi Port valve of the filter. If this is not the problem, then drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near the aimflow jet, with your pump shut off and the water still. See if the dye is sucked into the aimflow. If dye is sucked in consistently over at least 20 – 30 seconds, then this is likely where the leak is.
Is the pool leaking only with the pump off?
This usually indicates a pool leak on the suction line. With the filter pump on, the plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum. Air can be drawn in through otherwise leaking points. You may notice air in the pump basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return aim flows, or a pool cleaner that is sluggish or often stops for no apparent reason. Check the pump basket lid is on tight with a good, clean o-ring, just to be sure. These symptoms after you check the pump lid o-ring would indicate a suction line leak.
Does the pool leak all the time?
This situation won’t eliminate the possibility of leaks in the pipe work, but it does get one to start considering the pool shell as a possibility. Look for cracks in the plaster or tears in the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line and look real closely inside of the skimmer box / weir. Avery common leak is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with your pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under water lights can and do leak as well. Contact your pool professional for suitable products to seal the leak until permanent repairs can be undertaken if necessary.
Are there leaks at the pump / filter installation?
Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and valves. Check the ground for moisture. Turn the pump on and off looking closely for spraying water when the pump is turned off.
Does the pool water level always drop to the same point without going further?
You may be able to switch the pump off and allow the water level to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The underwater light is a common leak source. Where the water level stops, do a dye test around the pool on this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a leak.
Are there any wet areas around the pool?
Take a walk around the pool's edge and between the pool and the equipment. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.
For pool leaks in a vinyl pool there are special considerations. Look out for our blog on this subject in the future.
Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course, these costs will be lower if you can identify the leak to your pool professional saving the time of all the tests. Higher prices will obviously be charged for below ground work, and remember you pool professional like you will not be able to tell if more than one leak exists. Many pools leak in more than one area so monitoring after repairs is important.
About us and our blog.
Waterwell Projects (Pty) Ltd is a wholly South African owned company and was formed in 2007. We are not only one of the fastest growing companies in the Premium Professional Swimming pool and spa care products sector but we are currently also the only company that exclusively services this sector. Waterwell Pro Pool & Spa Care products are exclusively sold through a continuously expanding network of Professional Pool Care Outlets and are recommended by Pool Building and Renovations companies situated all around the country. The products are also extensively used by Pool Maintenance companies who provide regular valet services. Waterwell Projects (Pty) Ltd has its headquarters in Johannesburg with offices in Cape Town and Durban. The brand is known for its high performance product range and leads the way with providing its retail customers with state of the art water testing facilities and prescription software as well as regular training. We also recently introduced a equipment range We encourage our distributors to commit to operating by the same values that have underpinned our success in the market: To continually supply the most technologically advanced water testing and advise A policy of honesty, fairness and equality for all customers To ensure a full and complete offering both in products and support to suit all customers needs and desires. To ensure that we have the most committed , knowledgeable and experienced team Stategically planning for business growth Creating a culture of common attitudes, behaviours and ethics. The principles supporting our performance-based culture and against which our performance is measured ;- Safety, Health and the Environment, Organic growth, mergers and acquisitions, Creative Customer Solutions and Working Together – are all supported by appropriate systems and processes. Our culture empowers and motivates our team and our distributors to achieve long-term, sustainable results. This blog has been started to both reply to and anticipate the kind of information that pool owners all over South Africa continually request from us.
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